Friday, 22 April 2016

The HSM 2016: Challenge # 5: Holes

The fifth Historical Sew Monthly challenge is due May 31. The theme is holes and, of course technically, all clothes have holes, at least as soon as you go from a piece of material wrapped or draped around the body to a sewn garment. You simply cannot get into a garment if there isn’t openings in it. But holes can also serve a dual purpose combining utility with decoration. Or they can be there simply as an ornament. They can be punched and cut, the can form a circle or a slit or any other shape. There can even be more open space than material in a garment. I hope this post with a small sample of all kinds of holes will provide some inspiration.

Functional holes for lacing a bodice in blue glazed cotton, 1775-1800.

Digitalt museum

Holes necessary for adjusting the size of a corset.

Corset 1875-99, V&A

The buttonholes on this coat, dated to 1725-50, are both functional and decorative.

Metropolitan Museum of Art

A sideless gown where the necessity of arm holes also becomes a way to show off the garment underneath.

From Grandes Heures of Anne of Brittany, 1603-08. Wikimedia Commons
Gown by Lanvin from 1938 where the neckline that also provides a design element.

Metropolitan Museum of Art
The more holes in a bathing suit, the more places to get a lovely tan.

1920s bathing suit, back view. Metropolitan Museum of Art

Red doublet with decorative slits and a row of lacing holes to keep the breeches attached.

Wool doublet worn by Gustaf II Adolf of Sweden, 1620s. Livrustkammaren
A child’s bodice from the early 17th century where the open sleeves are tied with ribbons to form decorative slits.

Digitalt museum

Yellow silk dress from 1819 with decorative slits on the sleeveheads.

Back view. V&A

Red evening gown, c 1934 with the traditional lacing converted into a design element.

Metropolitan Museum of Art

Full length sleeveless negligée in pink silk satin from the 1930’s.


We wouldn’t have lace if there wasn’t any holes...

A woman’s waistcoat in drawn and pulled threadwork, 1630-39.


17th century collar in drawn lacework.


Cotton lace cap from 1829

Metropolitan Museum of Art

Linen petticoat with eyelet embroidery, 1860-65

Metropolitan Museum of Art

Bobbin lace bodice front, 1865-75.


And let's not forget shoes, that can provide many variations of both functional and decorative holes.

Chopines, 17th century. Livrustkammaren

A woman's silk shoe, 17th century. Livrustkammaren

Boots, 1920s. V&A

1930s shoes

Saturday, 9 April 2016

Scandinavian gowns in the late 17th and early 18th century.

The more I dig into fashion history, the more interested I get in what was actually worn here, in Sweden, where I live. It’s not altogether easy to find information about that. So I have been very happy in diffing into a Danish website: Dragter på epitafier og gravsten i Danmark (Costumes on epitaphs and tombs in Denmark). There are even a few from germany and more than a few from Swedish churches, dated from the 16th century to the 18th. So far I have only dug into the paintings and they are a wonderful source to what well to do, but not necessarily aristocratic, women wore in Denmark and Sweden. Here are a few from the late 17th-early 18th century, showing some really nice mantuas, caps and hairstyles.

Click on the links for more pictures.

Two great fontange caps.

Anonymous lady by Lucas Ambders, 1685

Anonymous lady by Necolaus Tych, 1695
I love, love, love these mantuas. The different patterns on mantua, petticoat and stomacher on the mother, the play with the stripes on the daughter's gowns.

Peder Jensen Lucoppidan and Anna Christine Jørgensdatter with their children. Svendborg Sct Nicolai kirke, Denmark. Painted in 1696

More somber mantuas, but the caps are spectacular!

This mantua in black is even more sober.

Frands König and Anne Lauritzdatter. Kirke Helsige kirke, Denmark. Painted in 1694.

Also very pretty with the borders.

Mathias Rubenius and his wives; Anna and Gertrud Katrina Liljengranat. Färlövs kyrka, Sweden. Painted 1700-09

And this mantua is stunning and the cap is too! I want it!

Anne Christensdatter Søe 1644-1736. Thisted kirke, Denmark. Painted 1684.

Catharina, married to Johannes Georg Alsing. Västra Tommarps kyrka, Sweden

I'm not sure if the following gowns are closed front Mantuas or some other kind of gown. And more spectacular caps!

Mads Christensen and Martha Bertelsdatter with their children. Bjerned kirke, Denmark Painted 1691.
Laurits Jensen Beder and Anna Cathrine Pedersdatter Dorscheus with their children. Beder kirke, Denmark. painted around 1690.

Maren Stefansdatter and her daughters. Varde Sct Jacobi Kirke, Denmark. Painted in 1677

Christen Lauridsen Rhuus and Johanne Samuelsdatter Gesmel. Saeby kirke, Denmark. Painted around 1700 by Christen Lauridsen Rhuus .

The red fabric is so gorgeous! And a nice view on the stays too.

Christiane Marie Foss 1684-1750, married to Carsten Worm 1707, Århus stift

 And here it looks like the stays are laced over a different coloured stomacher.

Knud Hauch and Sophie Brun. Ribe Sct Catharina kirke, Denmark. Painted by Knud Hauch 1703

And a few hairstyles. Big hair was a thing around 1700 too.

Edel Sophie Bille 1684-1706. Ubby kirke, Roskilde stift. Painted in 1714

Margrethe Ingeborg Hemmer, 1643-1723, married to Mathias Worm. Painting from 1700-09, Århus Stift

Unknown girl, 12 years old. painted 1690-09. Denmark

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